Fly from Anadyr to Evgekinot, a small isolated village on the Arctic Circle and one of the most scenically beautiful places in Chukotka. After lunch, we will climb a 600-metre mountain right next to the village. At the top, we will be rewarded with spectacular views over the turquoise waters of Kresta Bay and the surrounding mountains. Overnight in comfortable bungalows.

Travel in two Trekol all-terrain vehicles 90km north on a dirt track to the even tinier village of Amguema. We will use one of Chukotka’s most scenically beautiful roads, built entirely by gulag concentration camp prisoners. On the way we will pass through spectacular mountain scenery and stop to explore small gulag camps. Amguema, population 500, is where the real journey will begin. From here we continue into the tundra, stopping at a couple of abandoned villages on the way. In the afternoon, we will reach an encampment of nomadic Chukchi reindeer herders. We will spend the rest of the day getting to know the herders and learning about their ancient way of life. Overnight at the nomad camp.

We travel further north in our Trekol all-terrain vehicles all day. Late in the evening, we reach the Arctic Ocean Coast and the totally isolated village of Vankarem, population 180. Vankarem is a tiny community of indigenous Chukchi on the Arctic Ocean coast. It is, without a doubt, one of the most inaccessible places in Russia and even the world. On the way we may see Arctic fauna such as brown bears, Eurasian ground squirrels, foxes, wolverines, Arctic hares, reindeer, snow geese, cranes, etc.

European Russians consider Siberia “out there.” Siberians consider the north east “out there.” People from the northeast consider Chukotka “out there.” And in Chukotka, Vankarem is considered “out there,” a place completely cut off from the rest of the province, where time stands still. People here travel by dog sledge in winter and live traditionally by hunting sea mammals.

Every year a walrus colony appears right next to the village. In August it numbers about 5,000 and is a 20-minute walk from the village. By October, there are 35,000 walrus. The edge of the colony comes right up to the last houses in the village.

Overnight in local homes or in the school.

If we have calm seas today, we will immediately go to Kolyuchin Island. If not, we will visit the Vankarem walrus colony and go to Kolyuchin on the first day with calm seas.

To reach Kolyuchin Island, we must first travel 70km by motor boat, following the coastline to the indigenous village of Nutepelmen. On the way, we will have very good chances of spotting polar bears and whales. From Nutepelmen, we cross the 11km strait that separates Kolyuchin Island from the mainland.

After lunch in some hunters’ cabins on the island, we will set off to explore. Here, as well as large walrus colonies, seals and polar bears, we will be able to observe one of the biggest bird colonies in the Eastern Arctic, where over a million birds will overpower you with their deafening cacophony and smell! This is truly one of the sights that leaves visitors speechless, almost more so than polar bears and walrus. Among the birds you will spot puffins, cormorants, guillemot, sandpipers, eiders, peregrine falcon, ducks, geese, petrels, kittiwake and many other types of gulls and other birds. Sometimes a flock of petrels will surround our boat, which looks like something out of the Alfred Hitchcock film “Birds”.

Many types of whales are constantly in the waters around Kolyuchin, including bowhead, humpbacks, gray whales, minkes and orcas. In some years you can see up to 100 fountains at the same time from the shore of Kolyuchin island.

Dinner and overnight in the hunters cabins. Arctic foxes here are very tame. If you do not follow them around or scare them, they will come right up to the cabins.

Another day exploring Kolyuchin Island and nearby waters.

Day 7: Return to Vankarem via Nutepelmen. Visit the Vankarem walrus colony in the afternoon if we have time. Overnight in local homes or in the school.

On these days we will visit the walrus colony and spend as much time as we want there photographing the walrus and polar bears. We will also be able to explore the surrounding coastline and tundra in the hope of seeing other animals and birds.

We return to Egvekinot in our Trekol all-terrain vehicles. We will aim to overnight with the Chukchi reindeer herders on Day 10. However, if swampy ground, fog or anything else delays us, we may need to overnight in the Trekols. Sleeping spaces can be set up for this. On Day 11, we will overnight in the Egvekinot bungalows.

Flight to Anadyr. After arrival, we visit the abandoned Soviet military installation of Gudym before taking the ferry and checking into the Hotel Chukotka. Again, on the ferry ride we will have good chances of seeing beluga whales, seals puffins and other birds.

Today we will do a boat trip to another walrus colony. On the way we will pass some stunning coastal scenery. We will see some bird cliffs and, very likely, whales and seals too. Overnight in Hotel Chukotka.

Today we take a Trekol all-terrain vehicle through the tundra to the base of Mount Dionysius. We will take a hike to the top for spectacular views over the Anadyr tundra and estuary. On the way we will have good chances of spotting various types of birds and animals. Overnight in Hotel Chukotka.

Ferry crossing to the airport, spotting beluga whales, seals and puffins on the way. Fly home.